I’m of mixed heritage but in Ghana, i’m a white girl
By Tenai Steele
I am in Accra-Ghana in West Africa for only two weeks; I want to learn as much as possible.
And I’ve learned more on my first day than I could have ever imagined.
As I left my lovely host family’s house to explore the city with Theo, a staff member from Projects Abroad, an adorable little boy was saying to me “Obroni! Obroni! Obroni!”
I don’t speak Akan which is the dominant local language in Accra–I smiled at him and waved, and he waved back.
I asked Theo what Obroni meant, and when he told me, I couldn’t help but laugh.
I wasn’t offended. If anything, it made this sweet moment more memorable.
Obroni (Oborɔnyi in Fangte) is a local word meaning “foreigner,” used most frequently in reference to white people which literally means “those who come from over the horizon.
And there is no stigma or prejudice intended when referring to someone by skin colour.
Here, that’s the way to get a foreigner’s attention.
Black people in the Diaspora can hide a little under the radar but can be picked out by the way they carry themselves or dress and definitely once they speak.
The word is also used by Ghanaians living in foreign countries, when speaking amongst themselves, as a “code” word for “white man”.
Even within Ghana, Obroni predominates because it is common to the predominant local languages, those of Akan family, primarily Ashanti Twi, Akuapem Twi and Fante.
The word “obroni” derives from the word “Abro fuo”, which means trickster, “one who frustrates” or “one who cannot be trusted”.
It is possible that the word arose during initial contact of the Ashantis with Europeans.
Coincidentally, the word for “white person” used by the Ga, is Blofonyo for short.
This word also derives from “Ablo fo nyo”, which again means “one who frustrates”, or a trickster.
I’m of mixed heritage and I have family members of all different colours.
Born and bred in England, I’m used to my blackness being the first thing people notice about me.
I didn’t expect to experience the reverse in a Black-majority country.
I expected to blend in a little more, only to realise I was standing out more than ever!
I’ve been told most, if not all, people I come across in Ghana will think I’m white.
For me, it’s obvious I’m not. But I suppose this is the product of coming from a diverse and painstakingly racist country.
Although only 3.7% of the UK’s population is Black and 2.7% is mixed, it still very much feels richly diverse, at least in the cities.
I’m used to not fitting in in white spaces back home, and to be honest, sometimes in Black spaces too.
But with every corner of Accra carrying an infectious energy, it makes it easy to forget I’m standing out among the crowd here.
My experience in Ghana has already been so beautiful and so welcoming; it makes me wonder why I haven’t visited sooner.
The people, the culture, the food (especially the food), and everything about Accra is beautifully vibrant and nuanced.
The way I’m seen here is new to me, but it doesn’t deter me.
An opportunity to learn about different perspectives and different ways of life will always be valuable to me.
Accra has already opened my eyes, mind, and heart in ways I never expected.
And for that, I am forever grateful.
(A special shout out to my host mother Favour for making me feel so comfortable in her home!)
